Bretagne Rock

Probably the best and most prolific granite-climbing venue in South Africa, the wonderful domes of Paarl Rocks, has had rather a chequered history. It was discovered (for climbing) in the late 1960s, when a few easy, and often protectionless routes were put up here and there. But it was only in the 1980s that things really started hotting up. Many desperate and often very run-out routes were put up using sketchy natural gear and hand-drilled bolts. Paarl Rocks (or The Grey Death, as it became fondly known) remained a hard core venue for about two decades then, from the late ’90s and into the next decade, a wave of renewed interest was shown in the steely-grey granite domes. Thanks mainly to Stewart and Scott Noy, who made the place their own for a few years, many new single and multi-pitch routes of outstanding quality and mainly moderate grades have been added, and some of the old ‘death bolts’ have been replaced on certain existing routes. For a different experience and a really fun day out, involving wild and exposed multi-pitch climbing in a magnificent and tranquil setting, Paarl Rocks is not to be missed. Be warned though, some of the routes will feel hard for their grade due, in part, to its fearsome reputation from the past, but also due to the style of climbing (often insecure and run-out). If you are firing it up on sandstone steeps, don’t come to Paarl with a fluffy tail. You will be chopped down to size within a few leg-quivering metres. Take some time, maybe a few easier routes, to get used to the slabby/frictiony nature of the climbing. Then you can up the ante and have more fun. For a comprehensive guide to the trad routes, get Paarl Rocks – A Climber’s Guide. Bretagne Rock is the biggest and highest of all the domes and has a chain rail running up the one side to assist tourists to visit the summit. It has a range of excellent climbs, from classic medium-grade multi- pitch routes, to steep (by Paarl standards), hard routes, to some long (five pitches), but easier routes on the huge Weasel Wall. Weasel Wall is a huge and impressive looking wall with some of the longest routes at Paarl Rocks, especially Garden Route, which although quite easy, does go on for 15 pitches, including two abseils, some slab walks and interesting gardens.