__STAY LOCAL__
Eating, drinking, buying and sleeping locally is essential for the evolution of climbing in Ulassai. Whenever you go to a local bar, restaurant, shop or accomodation you directly influence the well-being of small business owners. You provide the necessary income for their families by doing so. Climbing is not only about climbing. There is a whole community behind it and this is a big part of it!
__ETHICS__
_Leave no trace_
The most important rule of them all. Never leave rubbish behind! For toilet visits, use a shovel and never leave toilet paper behind. Do not throw cigarettes or tape on the ground. Offenders will be publicly executed.
_Be one with nature and the village_
All climbers are guests in Ulassai. Show respect to locals and their habits, generous hospitality will come in return. Avoid loud music and shouting at the rock. Stay on the paths. Keep your dogs on the lead when there are goats or sheep around.
_Be a friendly and respectful climber_
Nobody cares whether you climb 6a or 8a, leave all arrogance and competition behind. Don’t tickmark every hold and always brush away your chalk whilst lowering off. Don’t occupy lines with never ending topropes.
__GENERAL INFO__
__Reaching Ulassai/Jerzu/Osini/Ussassai__
_Boat_
Ferries leave regularly from Spain, France and Italy to Sardinia. You either arrive in Olbia (180km) or Porto Torres (220km). In high season some boats go all the way to Arbatax (25 km).
_Plane_
Low cost airlines fly to Cagliari (100km) and Olbia.
_Bus_
If you want to travel by public transport, Cagliari is the preferable choice. A bus leaves twice a day to Ulassai from Cagliari bus station. Once in Ulassai, all shops and crags can be easily reached by foot.
__Where to sleep__
There is a wide variety of bed and breakfasts, each with their own style and price.
__Eat and drink__
There is a fresh water tap at P1 behind the ancient wash place. The village offers a wide choice of local bio products. Support local businesses and buy your food and drinks in one of the supermarkets, bars, butchers or restaurants. For more info have a look at the list of local businesses on. Every Tuesday morning, there is a market on Piazza Barigau. Don’t forget to move your car the night before!
__Best season__
From March until December. There are lots of shaded walls for hot summer days and sunny walls for the colder ones.
__Gear to bring__
A 70m rope will bring you down safely from most climbs, sometimes an 80m rope is needed. All lines higher than 35m are indicated in red. Bring 16 quickdraws and whatever you need to change the anchor.
__Bolting and safety__
Bolting in Ulassai is regulated to aim for the highest safety. For more info about bolting or suggestions about safety, send an email to
[email protected].
Climbing is a dangerous sport. Accidents can be avoided with a knot in the end of the rope and a partner check.
The author of the guidebook is not responsible for any accidents that might occur from the use of this guidebook.
