Tognazza

Trentino, IT

Dell’Antonio and Marcon open the first and wonderful route on this wall in year 1962. They climbed the unmistakable “Gran Diedro”. All the following routes, opened during the 80’, are by the members of the “Scuola alpina fiamme gialle”. During my army service I was stationed in the Primiero in 1997. Two friends while going climbing passed by the camp more to provoke than to say hallo. I could not go with them, it was severely forbidden to leave the camp. I saw them going but after a while I could not resist … I eluded the guards and hitchhiking I joined them. Once I got at the bottom of the wall Narci and Ciano were already high up. I ran, I scarmbled up the scree and solo I climbed up to them, just before the big slab. I was in a hurry but Ciano insisted saying it was time for some food! He opened a huge tuna fish can and if I’m not wrong we drank the oil. Right after the snack they allowed me to lead. This is the way “Turini” a 7a+ came to life. The wall is a wonderful balcony overlooking the Pale. The rock is made of porphyry, similar to granite but so peculiar to guarantee a perfect friction. It reminds of limestone. The local “Fiamme Gialle” are frequently here and they equipped all the belays with solid bolts. Some of these routes get forgotten and some grass re-occupy the cracks. Around the 90’ I rediscovered some sections I never took into consideration and equipped some of the most wonderful friction lines I have ever climbed. Some unique pitches of high difficulty saw the light. The apex of this discover and creation was Baby Rabbit 8b/c. Recently the sector sees more and more climbers and few new lines
CRAG STATISTICS
28
Routes
680
meters climbed
3
Zlags
6c
average grade

J F M A M J J A S O N D

Safe
Parking
Vertical
Overhanging
Exposition
1991 m.
20 min.

GALLERY