El Sass / Castel Pietra

Trentino, IT

Castelpietra and San Silvestro are for sure the first two climbing sectors that saw climbers at the beginning of the ‘60th. Among those that came here Samuele Scalet, a very strong climber, using aid climbing managed to get to the top of the today named “La fessura”. Lallo Gadenz was defeated by the South edge. The edge was guarded by a lone and strong fir tree. But in 2006, after a bit of gardening, the South edge was successfully climbed by Fabio Testa. Only in the ‘80th the new climbing generation sensed the potential of this area. The first opening routes here were thanks to Umberto Turra, Sebastiano Zagonel, Stefano Cosner and Gian Attilio Turra. Thanks to them we can enjoy “Pixi e Dixi” and “Stretching”, opened in 1983. They were followed by Gabriele Zugliani, Enrico Bettega and myself. The quick and easy approach, combined with the different difficulties of the routes and the excellent quality of the rock, made of this place one of the most successful of the whole area. Slowly but constantly, thanks to the cut of other trees, which made the wall a bit wet and slow in drying, the potential became more evident. It’s easy to spot the wall, crowned by what it’s left of the old castle, still guarding the Val Canali.
CRAG STATISTICS
21
Routes
315
meters climbed
15
Zlags
5c
average grade

J F M A M J J A S O N D

Safe
Parking
Vertical
Overhanging
Exposition
992 m.
5 min.

GALLERY