Thailand


I have seen Railay change from an unknown climbing hideaway where eccentrics from around the world washed up and lived and climbed in the jungle for years at a time, to the up market tourist machine it has become. Tonsai still retains some of that magic, although with the advent of the wall and possible development looming it can sometimes look more like a war zone then paradise. That said Tonsai and the back of Railay still retain that jungle spirit- late at night or early in the morning- there is nothing quite like it. Then of course there is always the rock…. Route Information and Topo Corrections: Having climbed here since 1992 I have been up 95% of the routes in this guide, with the exception of the very hardest. In this book I provide the grade as given by the first person to climb/ bolt it (first ascent), whether I agree with it or not. Routes on Pra-Nang Beach have been rebolted with titanium. Their grades are now their original grades, in respect to those who first put them up over 20 years ago. In the case of Stalagasaurus and Tidal Wave grades have changed, because of a broken stalactite. __Other Climbing Destinations__ This section of the guidebook, is a collection of contacts and information on climbing destinations around Thailand and neighboring countries. It should be enough information to get through another 6 months in this part of the world… No topos or route details are included as all the areas listed have their own climbing guides. To include this in our guide book would be taking away some ones hard work and effort in collecting and compiling their guide book. The sale of this guide in Krabi/Rai Lay has helped with maintaining the routes, re-bolting, first aid supplies and what ever else needs to be done in the area. Because some of these other areas are just so good, we will try and give you a taste... Enjoy! __Central Thailand__ Bangkok, Khao Yai, Lopburi, Langsak Central Thailand – Bangkok is fast becoming another rock climbing destination. For full details I would recommend you visit Simon Foley website. www.simonfoley.com/climbing it is very informative and helpful. Proclimber Address is 391/11 Soi Chan 69, Chan Road, Bangrak District, Bangkok 10120 Tel: 0-2211-5053 Fax: 0-2675-0780. CLoset BTS station (Sky Train) is Thanksin Bridge, go east up Charoenkrung Road and Soi 69 should be on your left (but not sure how long the walk is yet) Hours: Open today · 9am–10pm www.proclimberthailand.com Climbing Gyms in Bangkok Rock Domain Climbing Gym Address: 1780 Bangna-trad road, Bang Na, Bangkok 10260, Thailand Hours: Open today · 11am–10pm Phone: +66 2 399 4648 __Climbing In Ban Na San District__ Ban Na San district at Surathani province is rock climbing destination that has been developed in 2005 by King, Rit and numberous climbers from Railay. Located (153.0 km) from Krabi it takes 1 hrs 51 Min to drive. The main climbing wall is near by Ban Na San river (Guan Im Goddes closed to Wat Nasan). The route details and information I have is very limited and is kindly provided by Jonas & Nikki, There are already more then 50 routes over 4 areas and there are new routes every year. More infomation and details you can find out at address below. Government Organization Opening hours Mon - Fri: 08:30 - 16:30 Address Na San Ban Na San Surat Thani 84120 Thailand Phone 077341018 E-mail : [email protected] Accommodation: There is accommodation ranging from 500 - 1,000 Baht per night, most are located right next to the rever. Food And Drink: It is very easy to find fantastic local food costing 50-150 baht per meal. When you are going out climbing there is no food available so you will need to pack lunch and water. Here’s the info on the routes we put up with trevor at Ban Na San (Surathani) Grades are not confirmed yet but should be quite close. Trevor put up the two climbs 6b (far right off of the photo) and 6b+ (just to the left of it) in 2014 This year 2016 he put up the line on the left 6c into 7b+ (not sure if he’s done the FA of the 7b+ pitch yet) Jonas and Nikki continued Trevor’s work and put up the second and third 6b pitches on the right routes. We also put up an independent pitch in the middle at the top that in the future will have two access pitches leading up to it, but for now it’s only accessible through an unprotected traverse from the anchor of the second pitch on the 6b climb Route names left to right: 1 “can do” 6c into (7b+) 2 “money for nothing” 6c+ (top pitch only) 3 “Doctor desire” 6b+ ( single pitch) 4 “the last boyscout” 6b, 3 pitches __Khao Yai Climbing Area__ only 90 minutes south of Bangkok, 27 routes, grades 5 – 7C, mostly single pitch climbs. Free download of the routes and how to get there available on the Simon Foley site. __Lopburi Climbing Area__ 2 hours from Bangkok, 12 or more routes with loads of potential for more, great limestone, 180m rock face. Great pinnacle pitches to the top. This climbing area is located at a temple. To keep this area open respect must be shown to the monks and a small donation would be appreciated. Free download of the routes and how to get there available on Simon Foley site. __Langsak – Uthani Thani Province__ About 3, 1/2 hours from Bangkok. I have heard some great things about this area. Sorry no real details. It is on my list to go and investigate. For further information contact Tom 01 832 8444. __Climbing In Sukhotha__ 134/2 Prawet Nakorn Road Tumbol Thanee Amphur Muang, Sukhothai, Thailand 64000 Phone: +66 (0) 869177417, +66 (0) 812898989, +66 (0) 854007960 Email: [email protected] __Northern Thailand- Chiang Mai__ Chiang Mai is 700 kms northwest of Bangkok. It is a nice cool change from the hot & humid beaches of Krabi. The best time to visit is July–March. The weather is pleasant, clear skies and green fields. April–June can be very hazy & smokey as the fields are burnt off in preparation for the rains. You can get there by plane, bus or train. The first time I climbed in Chiang Mai was in April 2002. It was hot and smokey but we had a great time. A group of us spent a week exploring and climbing at Crazy Horse. Crazy Horse is located 36 km outside of Chiang Mai. There are bolted climbs here at all grades. The rock is great quality, slopey, and well pocketed. We had a great time and took loads of photo’s. I will definitely be going back for more! A lot has happened since 2002. I have not included Topo’s in this section as there is already an excellent local guide book of this area. (Details below) Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventure has put together a full colour 180 page guide. Guide to Rock Climbing in Thailand. The book is written by Josh Morris and Khaetthaleeya Uppakham who have been responsible for the majority of climbing development is Northern Thailand. The book has detailed information on climbing routes, how to get there, places to eat, drink, and sleep in Chiang Mai. The book is available by order or from our climbing shop. _Contact Details;_ www.thailandclimbing.com, Email: [email protected] Address is 55/3 Ratchapakhinai Road inside the southeast corner of the moat near Julie Guesthouse, Whisky Guesthouse, and Pha-Thai Guesthouse. I have heard rumors of areas around Fang, Pai, and Mai Hong Son. So far not much more than hear say. I will keep up the search and will post any news at the King Climbers offices. Anyone with any details please let us know. [email protected] __Laos - Vang Vieng__ Climbing in Laos is a must. Take an overnight train ride from Bangkok to Nong Khai. Then head to the border crossing for Vientiane (visas available at the border). The small town of Vang Vieng is 170km north of Vientiane. Vang Vieng is fast growing into a great tourist spot with climbing being one of the main interests here. There is a river running through, on which their are insane rope swings. The other main activity is floating down the river on an inner tube in various states of wastedness. Cheap accommodation & restaurants are available in town or down on the river. The best time to visit is November–May. Climbing in Vang Vieng started in 2002 thanks to a group of German and American climbers. The main person has been Volker Schoeffl working with Wildside. There are over 50 bolted sports routes with grades from 5–8a, and loads of potential for more. As of the printing of this book, a permit is required to climb here. I have not included Topo’s in this section as Wildside have put together a small guide that is available at their office in Vang Vieng located on the main road. _Contact Details; _ Wildside Green Discovery www.wildsidediscoverylaos.com, Email: [email protected] Address is Nam Phou Fountain Circle, Vientiane, Laos Tel: 856-21-251564 Fax: 856-21-212106 http://www.greenclimbershome.com 856 (0)20 5966 7539 (Laos: Oct-May) +49 (0)172 5990392 (Germany: Jun-Sep) You will need to contact Wildside Green Discovery for a permit to climb. Their office is located on the main road of Vang Vieng. There are 2 climbing areas with loads of easy climbs for guiding, and some tough steep overhanging climbs put up by Volker. I went in April of 2003 and spent 5 days climbing. It was great- I’ll definitely be going back again on another climbing trip. __Cambodia__ Climbing in Cambodia has been established over the past ten years by climbers passing through. Several places have been developed: Kampot, Kampong Chan (most developed routes), Siem reap and Battambang. A climbing guide book by Benjamian Tipton consists of detailed maps and route information 90 pages To purchase a copy or find out more details contact: Monument Book Laos, 124/1, Rue Nokeokumman Vientieue, Phone (85621) 243-708 __Malaysia__ There is loads of climbing in Malaysia from the east to the west coast. Malaysia has the same fantastic limestone as Krabi with lots of easy routes and quite a few harder climbs. There is something for everyone. The main climbing area is located around Kuala Lumpur, Batu Caves which have over 170 routes. The other areas: Kelantan – Gua Musang, Perlis – Gua Kelam, Ipoh – Gua Cheroh, Alor Setar – Gunung Keriang & Penang, have an average of 20 or more routes, from easy to hard. I have just picked up a copy of Climb Malaysia and looking through it has got me keen to head over there and climb. Climb Malaysia 1st Edition A climbing guide of East & West Malaysia consists of detailed maps and route information on 398 routes in West & East Malaysia, with a 32 page special section on the climbs in MT Kinabalu. To purchase a copy of the guide or find out more details contact: Climb Asia, 117 Rangoon Road Singapore www.climbasia.net Email: [email protected] Have fun Climbing!
AREA STATISTICS BOOK STATISTICS
937
Routes
58381
meters climbed
2714
Zlags
6c
average grade
SPORT CLIMBING GRADES



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