Fife

Ravenscraig NT 296 923 Sat Nav: KY1 2AZ. A selection of rough sandstone coves and outcrops, underneath Ravenscraig Castle north-east of the seaside resort of Kirkcaldy. There are problems up to 6c, with many sandy landings, but the tides can bring in some detritus, pebbles and and seaweed, so mats are useful. Drive through Kirkcaldy eastwards on the coast road to a large car-park at Ravenscraig Park. Follow the coastal path signs downhill to the shore and if the tide is out walk along to the main cove with the long red roof. Alternatively follow the red-chip paths and duck down under the walls when you spot the big roof. The rock isn’t the best quality, but it’s steep and fun, and a pleasant venue in summer. Limekilns NT 067 838 Sat Nav KY11 3EL. In the woods just east of Charlestown (5km west of Rosyth through the village of Limekilns), can be found two house-sized limestone blocks in a pleasant woodland setting, with some good middle grade trad climbs on cracks and open walls. The crag has had a history of access problems, with the estate landowner having taken such measures as smearing the rock with grease and installing bat boxes to discourage climbing. The situation remains delicate, so please behave responsibly and try to minimise impact on the crag and surroundings. It is not a great bouldering venue, but there are endless girdle traverses for training and routes can be bouldered to jump-off height. Park by the post office and take a rough track up into the woods, striking north of the fence to find the blocs. Craiglug NO 404 182 Sat Nav: KY15 4RU. A small crag that has a picturesque outlook over the kingdom of Fife, it offers good fingery bouldering up to 6a. The left hand wall has a few easier problems whilst the right hand side has limited bouldering and some trad routes. In the village of Dairsie on the A91, 4km east of Cupar, take the only turn-off on the north side of the road. Park across from the primary school. From here walk north, around the right-hand bend in the road beside the cottages, then left up the Fingask track. Craiglug will come into view. Follow the field edges avoiding the houses at Craigfoodie. Don't park up the Fingask track, or at Craigfoodie, as the farmer has threatened to remove cars with his forklift! The left wall provides a good 6a+ problem, using a low thin layaway and high foothold to reach small high painful crimps and then top. Maiden Rock NO 526 158 Sat Nav KY16 8PX. St Andrews has a lot of soft coastal sandstone, in particular this pinnacle on the coast east of the old town. Popular enough with local boulderers, but needs mats as the landing is on large pebbles. To access, follow the coastal path from St Andrews, from the East Sands, towards Crail. In about 15 minutes walk the top of the rock is just visible from the path, and some overgrown stone steps lead down to the beach. The coast between St Andrews and Crail may deliver some more bouldering, such as at Buddo Rock, but the sandstone appears to be too friable for quality bouldering. A girdle traverse of the whole bloc is about 4+. Craigencat Quarry NT 101 953 Sat Nav: KY4 0JW. A quiet, disused dolerite quarry with some easy-grade bouldering up to about 6a. Some of the rock is a little loose so take care. There is a descent route in-between the Red and Black walls. To access, leave the M90 at junction 4 and drive away from Kelty 2km and turn right following sign for the Equestrian Centre. Follow this road (single track with passing places) for another 2km and the quarry will be found on the right. There are a few parking spaces off the road.