Biographie

Provence, FR

__Arnaud Petit about the sector 'Biographie':__ "Biographie wall is one of the most beautiful wall in the world, it is the wall of the future. Waves of bulges with no ends, amazing colors and a high quality limestone make it unique. When Jean-Christophe Lafaille opened Biographie, it was seen as a futuristic route, the best French climbers managed to achieve nearly all the moves but we had to wait for Chris Sharma to reach the top in 2001 after 4 seasons working in it. In 2017 Margo Hayes is the first woman to complete Biographie. Today only 15 persons have reached the top and except Alex Megos who did it easily in one day all the others put a lot into it, more than they would have thought, this complexity built its reputation. Since then many lines appeared, some of them stayed only projects as Chris Sharma, Ethan Pringle’s routes on each side of Biographie but also the one equipped by Sylvain Millet, Quentin Chastagnier or Jean-Yves Leguy. These upcoming 9b and 9c of the Biographie wall will occupy the strongest for a long time. This sector is situated in the centre of the cliff and promises great shows! The most accessible routes start with 7c+ (les Colonettes) and 8b if you want to climb the wall via the beautiful route “Black Bean” opened by Bruno Clément. I had lots of fun one day climbing it with trad gear. Among the most amazing routes in Ceüse I could also talk about an 8b on the right side of this wall - Stairway to Heaven - this is one of the most beautiful routes I have climbed. This route has been achieved only twice, probably due to the fact that there are only two points on the 20m crux. On this side you will also find very nice routes on grade 7, a bit less extreme." - Arnaud Petit
CRAG STATISTICS
41
Routes
3184
meters climbed
138
Zlags
8a+
average grade

J F M A M J J A S O N D

Family friendly
Very safe
Parking
Slabs
Vertical
Overhanging
Exposition
1818 m.
60 min.

GALLERY