Saint Nicholas Sintza

Peloponnese, GR

__Saint Nicholas Sintza__ is yet another beautiful monastery, a place of gathering and meditation since antiquity, suspended at the highest point of a steep valley between wild cliffs. 6km southwest of Leonidio, in a lush ravine at 500m altitude, Saint Nicholas Sintza comprises four sub-sectors: Valley Left (the north face) and Valley Right (the east face), on either side of the valley, and the two smaller sub-sectors Mikri Sintza (five minutes further right) and Garden of Dionysus (a massive, overhanging limestone face at the far right). __Climbing__ At Valley Left, very long routes on vertical or slightly overhanging, heavily pocketed solid grey and white limestone and routes mainly between 6b+ and 7c. At Valley Right, less overhanging climbing on beautiful, easy pitches on very compact grey rock, as well as harder lines on slightly overhanging sharp red walls. At Mikri Sintza, there are two small overhanging sections with bouldery routes on smooth flowstone with small tufa snakes and plenty of pockets. At Garden of Dionysus, an impressive big face with three of the boldest long routes in the Leonidio area. Overhanging all the way and up to seven pitches long. More details in the following pages in the intro section of each sub-sector. __Gear__ A single 18m rope + 16 QDs (for the longest extensions, 28 QDs). Some basic trad gear (set of nuts + friends) may also be required. See each sub-sector for details. __Conditions__ Cool. Often much cooler than the valley of Leonidio. Best for spring and fall, and not bad for summer. All-day climbing is possible by choosing appropriately: on the left, morning shade; on the right, afternoon shade. __Shade (Exposure: N, E, NE)__ Morning shade on the left (until 14:00). Afternoon shade on the right (after 15:00). __Kids__ With care. There are some good areas near the monastery, but not below the cliffs, and the wild goats everywhere significantly increase the risk of rockfall. --------- __Valley Left__ is a north-facing wall that stays cool on hotter days and enjoys a short walk-in with spectacular views. On the left side, very long routes on vertical or slightly overhanging, heavily pocketed solid grey/white limestone. The high-quality routes here are in the harder grades, but there are a couple of moderates that offer single pitch, multi-pitch, and even some trad placement options. __Valley Right__ is an east-facing wall that features beautiful, easy pitches on less overhanging, very compact grey rock, in addition to routes over 7a on slightly overhanging walls with sharp red rock. At the time of this writing, the 18 routes here range mainly between 5b–7b. __Mikri Sintza__ consists of two small cliffs on the right of the monastery. The 15 routes here are bouldery, mainly from 7b to 8a, on smooth overhanging flowstone with small tufa snakes and plenty of pockets. __Garden of Dionysus__ is even further up to the right. An impressive big face, it features three of the boldest long routes in all of Leonidio, up to seven pitches, and overhanging all the way. The area is remote and full of wild goats, which often dislodge stones from above. Please wear helmets as soon as you get out of your car, and keep them on at all times.
meters climbed
average grade


Family friendly
557 m.
3 min.