Sabaton

Peloponnese, GR

__Sabaton__ is the type of crag that, until recently, was in short supply in Leonidio: a sector with a very quick approach, at a serene spot near old olive trees, with stunning sea views, good pocketed limestone with pleasant mid-grade routes, and shade almost all day. It sounds perfect, right? Well, there’s still much to be desired. The rock is chossy and crumbly at parts, and some routes are very short or without particular interest. Overall, though, Sabaton is a very popular sector—so popular that on hot days you may be hard pressed to find a parking spot. __Climbing__ On short routes (mostly 15–20m) and steep grey walls and slabs, some chossy parts, but good steep red rock, too (mainly vertical and overhanging). At the time of this writing, there were nearly 70 very well-bolted routes. Sabaton was equipped by Claude Remy, with the help of Yiannis and Iakovos Metaxotos. Grades range from 5b–7c, with most being 6a–7a+. Beginners will enjoy some 4b–5c routes; intermediate climbers will be happy to find many routes in the 6a–6c range, as well as 7a–7b. And for hardcore climbers, there are even a few lines in the 7b+ to 8b range. Two smaller sub-sectors, Mini Canyon and Cool At The Pool, were later added to the main crag. Check the introduction to each of these sub-sectors for more details. __Gear__ A single 60m rope + 16 QDs. __Conditions__ Cool. Good for hot days in spring, fall, and summer. On very hot and windless days, make sure to bring bug spray. Also keep in mind that routes are exposed to the rain. But on the positive side, if it does rain you can run back to your car in just minutes. __Shade__ After 12:00. Exposure: NE __Kids__ Very good, with nice flat spots near the cliffs, and welcome shade underneath the beautiful olive trees. -------- __Mini Canyon__ is somewhat hidden next to Sabaton. Located to the north of the main wall, it is a narrow space with two walls facing each other and a couple more walls in between. At least two walls are always in the shade, so it is a good option for morning shade and mid-grade climbs when Sabaton Main is too busy. __Climbing__ Varied, on overhangs with good holds, slabs, and walls, but not always good rock quality. There are some short sandy sections that will hopefully improve with some traffic. Of the 24 routes, most are graded 5c–6b+, but there are some 6c–7b routes also. Numbers start at the left orange wall as you enter the canyon. Mini Canyon was equipped by Claude Remy and Boris Grobety in 2017, with the help of Yiannis and Iakovos Metaxotos. __Gear__ A single 60m rope + 16 QDs. __Conditions__ Cool. Good for warm spring, fall, and summer days. However, on very hot days with no wind, the narrow mini canyon can be extremely hot. Take bug spray. __Shade (Exposure: E, S, N, W)__ All day. ----------- __Cool At The Pool__ is beneath the main road, opposite Sabaton. A huge block with some short bolted lines on the rocky coast. There is no beach there. __Climbing__ Short boulder routes on sharp rock on three sides of a big block, plus a few more on a smaller boulder. Grades from 5c–7a. __Gear__ A single 60m rope + 10 QDs. __Conditions__ Best for a quick climb in late afternoon, then a swim off the rocky coast. The water looks more enticing than the actual rocks. __Shade (Exposure: E)__ After 16:00.
CRAG STATISTICS
106
Routes
70729
meters climbed
3800
Zlags
6b+
average grade

J F M A M J J A S O N D

Family friendly
Very safe
Parking
Vertical
Overhanging
Exposition
91 m.
2 min.

GALLERY