__La Maison des Chèvres__ is a small red/brown cave located next to a gentle river in idyllic mountain scenery. Opened by James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini in 2013, the crag was later expanded with a few more routes by other climbers. It is well-protected against the weather and the north wind. Traces of an old goat pen are still visible, hence the crag name, which translates to “House of the Goats.”
At the main crag, slab climbing on crimpy grey rock and steep, hard cave routes on excellent red/orange rock. Nearly all routes, though, are relatively short for an area like Leonidio, where the presence of long routes is a highlight. The main crag is best for climbers comfortable in the 6c to 8a grades. Of a total of 20 routes from 5c to 8c+, there are two or three easier routes on the slabs on each side of the cave, but the hard routes are the standouts here.
For the main crag, a single 60m rope + 12 QDs.
For the sub-sectors, a single 80m rope + 18 QDs.
Best for climbing on sunny winter days, or on cloudy days in spring and fall. The cave at the main sector offers some protection from rainfall.
__Shade (Exposure: SE)__
At the main sector, shade in the late afternoon around 16:00. In late autumn, shade around 14:00 (left side) and 16:00 (right side). The two sub-sectors are never in the shade.
No. The place is beautiful, but the terrain is steep. The only possibilities for supervised play are down by the river or by an old goat pen a bit further from the cliff.
__Le Château Polonais__ was first bolted by two Polish climbers in 2016, and 13 more routes were added by others as recently as 2019. All routes are quite new, so they will almost certainly benefit from more traffic. Climbing is demanding, balancy, and technical, on edges and crimps. Most routes are on slightly inclined or vertical rock, but there are also some amazing vertical tufa columns, and, occasionally, upper sections on tufas and overhangs.
__Le Jardin Publique__ is a smooth, vertical orange wall rising to a height of 35 meters. The climbing is technical, on a slab and wall with some overhanging exits or extensions in the mid-section of the cliff. Look out, though, for loose rock on some routes—better cleaning is needed. Furthermore, the bolting can be runout on occasion. Grades are mostly in the 7a to 7b+ range.