Jupiter

__Jupiter__ is an imposing 75-meter wall, a “pocketland” full of holes, occasional tufas, other nice limestone features and, well, pockets of all sizes. Known locally as Petzina, Jupiter is an extension of the Mars rock face, well-hidden on the other side of the Kokkinóvrachos cliff (northeast). Jupiter faces north—a rarity for Leonidio—and the cliff enjoys shade almost all day. The rock can be brittle and a bit dubious, especially the grey sections at the start of the climbs, but traffic has already vastly improved the quality of most routes. __Climbing__ Sustained, technical, enjoyable, and very rewarding on an immaculate limestone wall. Routes go up to 65m (!) on vertical or slightly overhanging terrain full of finger pockets or bigger juggy holes. Grades cover the entire 6a–8a range, the majority being between 6c–7b. Some first pitches are among the highest-quality 6c–7a routes in Leonidio. Most routes have long extensions, so make sure you have enough quickdraws and a very long rope. On some routes, for example the 55-meter long BUDDHA’S EYES (p. 274), if you only have an 80m rope you can use the intermediate belays belonging to one of the neighboring routes to re-thread and lower yourself to the ground. Most routes, especially the ones by the Remy Brothers team, are very well-protected and mostly densely bolted. Follow the line of the bolts closely, without straying. There may be loose rock outside the line of the bolts. __Gear__ A single 80m rope (or 100m rope for the longest routes) + 30 QDs (including some extra-long QDs or slings to reduce rope drag); helmets; perhaps a stick-clip for some routes. __Conditions__ There is never sun at the base of the routes, and it is often windy, so it can get cold. Good for climbing in spring and autumn (or even on breezy or windy summer days). __Shade (Exposure: N)__ All day. __Kids__ OK, but never under or near any climbers (as always), and with helmets at all times (as always).