Kapsala

Peloponnese, GR

__Kápsala__ is an impressive red cliff beneath the new coastal road connecting Kyparissi to Leonidio, not far from gorgeous Fokiano beach. Locally, Kápsala is known as Kokkinóvrachos, but to avoid confusing it with the main cliff in Leonidio, the crag here was named after an abandoned hamlet nearby. Incidentally, they say Kápsala hamlet was the hideout of the two brothers who assassinated Ioannis Kapodistrias in 1831. Kapodistrias was the first Head of State of independent Greece (1827) after the Greek Revolution liberated the country from Ottoman rule. He was one of the most progressive politicians the country had ever seen. Sadly, as is often the case with leaders who are ahead of their time, he did not get a chance to govern for long. __Climbing__ At three distinct sections of the cliff, each with its own climbing style. On the left, after the adventurous 5-pitch KING ALBERT 1ER, the rock is highly featured, with routes impressive for their grades but with some dirty and loose rock. The main attraction comes in the middle section, with 10 excellent endurance routes from 6b+ to 7b+ on solid, overhanging orange rock with big pockets and stalactites . The right side, near the approach path, features shorter routes on good grey and red rock which are suitable for warming up, although they are somewhat sharp. All routes were equipped for the CLIMB KYPARISSI project by Claude Remy, Aris Theodoropoulos, and Dimitris Titopoulos in April 2016. __Gear__ A single 80m rope + 22 QDs. Helmets are mandatory. __Conditions__ Best for spring, summer, and autumn. __Shade (Exposure: N, NE)__ All day (left) or after 11:00 (middle, right). __Kids__ Not good.
CRAG STATISTICS
26
Routes
12446
meters climbed
450
Zlags
6b+
average grade

J F M A M J J A S O N D

Very safe
Parking
Slabs
Vertical
Overhanging
Roof
Exposition
69 m.
10 min.

GALLERY