Old Baldy

Old Baldy is arguably one of the best pocket-pulling crags along the Niagara Escarpment. Situated above the town of Kimberley in the Beaver Valley region of Ontario, Old Baldy offers spectacular climbing with a beautiful backdrop. The cliffs are west-facing and tend to dry quickly. There is climbing here for everyone with grades ranging from 5.6 to 5.13’s. Although mostly a sport crag, there are traditional routes scattered across the crag with a majority of the trad climbs in the north end of the crag. When the summer heat is too much to handle, cool down with some climbs in The Alley, nature’s very own air conditioned gully. In 2010, aging hardware on a number of sport routes was replaced with stainless steel bolts donated by Mountain Equipment Co-op; an initiative spearheaded by the OAC. More recently, the OAC led another initiative with donations from various organizations to purchase the land just below Old Baldy Conservation Area, securing future access to climbers. For most sport climbs, ten quickdraws should be enough. __Southern Pinnacle/Fallout Wall__ The first crag you encounter from the easy, southern descent. Easily identified by the pinnacle and gully. __Central Pinnacle Area/The Alley__ A big concentration of easier sport routes makes this area super popular. Climb the polished but decent climbs inside The Alley to get reprieve from the summer heat. Watch out for rocks and garbage thrown by oblivious hikers (aka Lougins). Best to wear a helmet. Some of the routes on the pinnacle have spaced out bolting. __Entropy Wall__ This long-ish wall starts on the ledge climbs right beside the Central Pinnacle area and continues to the Northern Pinnacle. __Northern Pinnacle Area__ Easily identifiable pinnacle after The Alley, walk down the trail, around the pinnacle, and up to a ledge to access the climbs there. __Jamaican Wall__ Half of the climbs on the Jamaican Wall are in a sunny area with white walls and large rocks on the ground. Many excellent climbs and long routes. Watch out for loose rock as the area improves. __Black Forest__ Nestled between a short pinnacle and the main cliff, the Black Magic Woman wall and Black Forest Area is shady and cool, making for comfortable climbing in hot weather. Can be accessed from the main trail quicker by a steep north descent - be careful if you do use it, especially when it’s wet. Most people finish the day at Black Magic Woman and ascend at that access point instead. __Clint Eastwood Wall__ The next trad wall further down the Black Forest Area from the Hiss Wall. Starts with a cluster of 3 climbs (The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly) Also shady and cool. Can be accessed by a descent at Black Forest or an easier one further north where the cliff starts tapering off. __Hiss Wall__ The trad wall further down in the Black Forest Area. Also shady and cool. Again, can be accessed quicker by a steep descent at the Black Forest - be careful if you do use it.