Mount Nemo

One of the largest crags with a convenient location and proximity to Toronto, Mount Nemo was unappreci-ated for a long time as many routes were not being maintained. This meant that everyone in a group had to minimally be 5.10 climbers. However, ongoing development since then has renewed interest at Mount Nemo. Difficult-to-protect trad routes have been retrobolted, and many beginner routes have been installed, which has essentially rejuvenated Mount Nemo into a premier climbing destination. New routes are frequently put up, with much new information constantly coming to light. Aerial photography (by Janet Trost) and some cartog-raphy information is courtesy of Joe Stubbs. The source of some route information and descriptions for Mount Nemo is based on the work of Justin Dwyer. For a complete guide to Mount Nemo, please refer to Justin’s guidebook, Ontario Climbing Vol. 1: The Southern Escarpment”, available at ontarioclimbing.com. Weath-er-wise, Mount Nemo is shady all year round, which makes it an excellent crag to climb in the heat of summer. The shade also keeps it cool, giving the crag a later-than-average start with snow visible in some areas as late as June. Some routes that have not be climbed in a long time, that do not protect well, or are overgrown have been intentionally left out. __The Big Gulp__ This area has seen the most new traffic in recent years given that a number of moderate routes have been put up or were retro-bolted, and it has an easy approach. A beginner-friendly area. 35 minute approach based on using Easy Way Down. No anchors for trad routes unless specified. __Camel Wall__ Like Big Gulp, Camel Wall features a large number of retro-bolted routes, giving it a resurgence in traffic. The Camel Wall is approached from Easy Way Down by hiking south. No anchors for trad routes unless specified. __Morphine Ledge__ This area contains a number of excellent trad routes which start on a ledge about 10m off the ground. All located around RESCUE#14. The routes here are all pretty long, reaching up to 100 ft, so bring a long rope. Approach via Easy Way Down and hike south. No anchors for trad routes unless specified. __The Cat's Tail__ This area features a number of excellent sport routes that make it a worthwhile visit. No anchors for trad routes unless specified. Approach via Easy Way Down and hike south. __Ground Zero Corner__ This section of the cliff is often missed because of the moderately graded trad lines; however, classic routes like Dehydrated Yuppie Brains, Double Feature and the namesake route should not be missed. If you’re an avid trad-head, make the long hike out to this wall. Access the Ground Zero ledge by 5.0 climbing on the right side of the area. Approach via Easy Way Down and hike south. __New Wall__ Contrary to the name, the wall isn't particularly new anymore. It was in the 80’s, like CD players and laser pointers. However, New Wall might be able to live up to its old moniker again. Given its longer-than-average approach time, routes are further apart, leaving more space for new development. In turn, this has attracted developers (thank you!), and some interesting new routes have sprung up. Approach via Easy Way Down and hike south. No anchors unless specified. __Ivory Tower__ The Ivory Tower can easily be identified as the large white pinnacle detached from the main cliff. There is a handful of excellent sport climbs that are worth doing here. No anchors for trad routes unless specified. No anchors for trad routes unless specified. Approach via Easy Way Down and hike south. __Zoomba Wall__ The Zoomba Wall contains a nice mix of grades making it a busy wall on the weekends. All routes are bolted with tightly spaced bolts for the gym-to-crag-climber. The base of this wall is shaded and relatively flat. RESCUE#25. Approach via Alfred Gully and hike north. __Dance Wall/Ledges__ The Dance Ledges are approximately 20 feet up from the ground and to the left of the Zoomba wall. Climb 3 bolts to get on the A Dance Ledge which has a bolted belay station to reach three routes. Similarly, a bolted arching flake/crack just right of Spring Thaw takes you up to a belay station on the O Dance Ledge where there are two routes. Approach via Alfred Gully and hike north. __Grunge Wall__ This wall consists of the routes surrounding the easy, popular trad route Grunge. Formerly known as part of Central Zone, which has since been split up into the Zoomba Wall, Dance Wall/Ledges, and The Grunge Wall. This is also to avoid confusion with the popular Central Wall further south. Routes 1-6 are located around a pinnacle (Party Pinnacle) uphill off the base trail. __The Castle Area__ This area includes the routes from The Castle ledge/ pinnacle to the Falling Tom Gully. The Castle Ledge is easily visible above the trail at the base of the cliff and left of the Castle pinnacle feature. To reach the ledge, scramble up the Castle Gully and swing back to the ledge. Approach via Alfred Gully and hike north. __White Trash__ This wall encompasses the routes on the wall south of the Falling Tom Gully. No anchors for trad routes unless specified. Best approach via Alfred Gully and hike north. __Iguana Wall__ A popular summer wall with many great routes. Approach from the Alfred Gully and take a short walk north. No anchors for trad routes unless specified. __Alfred Wall__ Due to its relatively short hike from the main trail, access from the Alfred Gully, and afternoon shade, this wall is quite popular - particularly on warm summer days where the gully acts like a natural refrigerator -hint, hint. Alfred Wall features great face climbing in the 5.10 to 5.11 range. No anchors for trad routes unless specified. __Central Wall__ Not to be confused with a nearby area formerly known as The Central Zone (now deprecated), The Central Wall is located a short walk climber’s left of Alfred Wall at the Central Gully (which is the zero point for the painted numbering system). It is recommended to use the Alfred Gully for approach. Central Wall hosts the infamous classic duo Mean Streaks and Scarface. No anchors for trad routes unless specified. __Helmut Wall__ Although there are quite a few decent routes in this area, many have succumbed to vegetation, leaving them completely unclimbable. Be particularly cautious of poison ivy. No anchors unless specified. If there’s a painted number at the base of the route, it will be at the end of the description. The base of Helmut Wall is on private property, so keep a low profile and be on your best behaviour. No anchors for trad routes unless specified. Approach via Alfred Gully and hike south. __The Dead Zone__ The Dead Zone is immediately recognizable by the huge roof. This area is home to Mt. Nemo’s toughest route, and likely a playground for the next generation of climbers. It also features the classic 5.9, Dufte. Approach via Gooseberry Gully and head a little north. __Gooseberry Wall__ Gooseberry Wall lies at the southern border of the conservation area. Do not climb further south of this wall. No anchors on most climbs. Approach via Gooseberry Gully and head a little south.