Metcalfe Rock

Metcalfe Rock is an easily accessible cliff with a variety of climbs, grades and styles. Metcalfe is tucked away in a quiet rural setting with fine views across the Mitchell’s Creek valley. With its short approach, established trail systems and natural fed spring, it is no wonder that Metcalfe is a popular spot for many user groups, guiding companies and rock climbers alike. The climbing style reflects the rich history of the cliff and routes can be anything from well bolted clip ups, mixed sport and trad, bold traditional climbs and moderate top ropes. Expect crowds on weekends, but mid-week this beautiful cliff is a peaceful oasis of ancient white cedars, deep cold caves, and quality stout rock climbs for most levels of climbers. __South Wall__ This sunny wall is the first wall once you cross the bridge from the parking lot. The South Wall lies on the right end of the long wall, while the Overhang Wall is the overhanging left section. An easy trail up the right side (South Wall) allows access to the anchors for top ropes while hard routes lie on the Overhang Wall. You can also do some bouldering where the cliff tapers off on the right. __Overhang Wall__ This sunny wall is the first wall once you cross the bridge from the parking lot. The South Wall lies on the right end of the long wall, while the Overhang Wall is the overhanging left section. An easy trail up the right side (South Wall) allows access to the anchors for top ropes while hard routes lie on the Overhang Wall. You can also do some bouldering where the cliff tapers off on the right. __The Big Gully__ Located behind the South/Overhanging wall, this area only has trad climbs. Mostly shady on the west side (side sharing the South Wall) of the gully. __Boiler Plate Wall__ At the end of the Overhang wall is a big gully with trad routes. On the other side of the gully is a smooth face where mostly mixed trad routes can be found. __Central Area__ This larger area begins around the corner from the Boilerplate Wall and finishes at The Anvil. The routes are spread out, and there are practice/training anchors too. __The Anvil__ Easily recognized by the anvil-shaped pinnacle, this is where the bulk of the sport climbs at Metcalfe lie, including some routes of decent length and a popular multi-pitch route. __North Wall__ The last wall starting at the corner of the main cliff in the Anvil area. A number of newer routes have been established here. There are also a few undocumented routes much further north, though they are lower in quality. __The Rubble Heap__ A little further over from Metcalfe North, the Rubble Heap used to contain a few low-quality routes. However, recent bolting work has been done to alleviate the climbing traffic at Metcalfe, and many more routes exist now. This area tends to have a lot of loose rock at the top, so please wear a helmet. Also be careful walking around the scree (rubble heap) at the cliff base. Note: Due to a lack of information, route names were created for this area. __The Land Before Time__ The furthest area north, this quieter area (for now) features several new routes of surprisingly good quality. Expect more routes in this area in the future. Check ontariorockclimbing.com/updates for the most current information. Again, due to its late addition, route names were created for routes 12-21.