Devil’s Glen

Devil’s Glen has been around for quite a while, though only existing as a trad climbing area. A recent resurgence of bolting activity has led to several excellent routes being put up, making Devil’s Glen a great destination for all climbers. Most walls receive ample sun for most of the day, making it a good place to climb in cool weather, even early spring and late fall. However, the proximity of trees to the wall (many evergreen) means that the lower part of many walls tend to be shady, while the upper part receives ample sun. The main exceptions would be the Sun Worshipper wall and some routes on the east end. As with most Beaver Valley area crags, the black flies that come out in late May to June can be unbearable. There is a little spring around the midpoint of the wall for drinking water. Please note that climbing status is listed as “tolerated” here. Climbers should be on their best behaviour and stay on the main trail. Specifically, the OAC and climbers have a good relationship with the Provincial Park and the Ministry of Natural Resources, but this could change. __Gully Area__ These are all the routes around the west gully entrance of Devil’s Glen. __Mad Hatter Boulder Area__ The next area just east of the entrance gully area, this area is easily recognizable by two gullies - one ramping and the other with a right angle turn. There’s also a large boulder interestingly balanced on top of another. __Old School Wall__ Leave the Mad Hatter Boulder and go around the last corner gully to reach the face marking the start of the Old School Wall. The rock is solid, but be careful, the bolting on some of the sport routes tend to be old school (i.e. runout). Climb solid at the given grade. __Old School Wall Trad Area__ The trad routes that begin at the right of Attention All Shoppers and end before the Sun Worshipper Wall. __Sun Worshipper Wall__ A bright, sunny wall, both for the belayer and the climber, this face contrasts some excellent hard climbing on the left with easy, beginner climbs to the right. Perfect for all those hard climbers who’ve brought along a beginner. __Spring Area__ These are the routes around the small spring in the middle of the cliff. __Nutcracker Area__ This area includes the routes in a large corner area as well as some of the face routes to the east of it. It also contains the trad route Nutcracker, one of the best crack climbs of its grade in Ontario. The area tends to be shady due to the close proximity of trees to the cliff face. __Changing Corners Area__ This large area is bordered by the Nutcracker Wall on the west (climber’s left) and a striking corner that has the routes Fleas And Baboons and Out For A Rip. It is somewhat distinguishable by several large corners with trad routes. __East End__ This large area is bordered by the corner containing Fleas And Baboons and Out For A Rip on the west (climber’s left) and the east descent on the east (climber’s right).