Scoglio del Butto

The crag Scoglio del Butto is the latest newcomer to this guidebook. It is particularly welcomed because of its easy routes. This nice Quartzite wall, which stands out among the other walls of the Rocca dell’Aia is a newcomer because it is unknown to many climbers. In reality the Scoglio has already been the private hunting ground of some “historic” climbers of western Liguria since the end of the 70’s. One for all is Mauro Oliva. He knows better than anybody else every valley and side valley, which opens up from the coast. He went off to find new cliffs and bolted routes just about everywhere. Mauro put up some more routes on the nice slabs of the Butto. The multi pitch routes were often bolted from the ground whereas the single pitch routes were bolted from the top. Consequently friction climbing a couple of kilometres away from the famous limestone crags in a totally different environment is possible. The hands are on tiny crystals and the routes follow dihedrals and small cracks which cut up these nice slabs. What's new in recent months is a beautiful area of the cracks located on the northeast side of the Butto; certainly already visited in the past by the Vaccari brothers and Mauro Oliva with aid lines, it has been reinterpreted “trad” by a group of local climbers. Superb rock and lovely "mountain" environment at 800 meters. The wall faces southwest and climbing is best in autumn, winter and spring.