Paretone di Loreto

Liguria, IT

The Paretone di Loreto was one of the first crags to attract the new born group of sport climbers with its true 80’s style. Bolting from above with the use of bolts the developers found themselves in front of an enormous rock face often with nice walls. The classical approach to bolt from below wouldn’t have favoured the development of routes here. Gianni Carbone immediately understood the potential of this beautiful slab with drip formations. Consequently he put up some routes which fuelled the myth that up in the Argentina valley in an overhanging narrow gorge a cliff with demanding multi pitch routes existed. Routes like for example Streghe, which is maybe the nicest of the Paretone, were definitely difficult at the time when they were put up. Fortunately some more accessible routes like C’est la vie, which isn’t harder than 6b, together with some other nice single pitch routes in the 6th grade opened the place up for many climbers. So over the years the Paretone continues to have its admirers, like Giulio Scarca who opened in the last years 4 new routes in the grade 6. . Climbing on the lower crags of Loreto is at almost 800 metres of altitude. The sun arrives early in the morning and disappears at the end of the morning. The ideal seasons are spring and autumn. Good days can also be found in summer if there is a little bit of a breeze. If the worst comes to the worst and the heat gets too much the beautiful rock pools which are passed during the access offer a good alternatively.
CRAG STATISTICS
13
Routes
883
meters climbed
8
Zlags
6a
average grade

J F M A M J J A S O N D

Family friendly
Very safe
Rain safe
Parking
Slabs
Vertical
Exposition

GALLERY