Carpe

The first cliffs to be explored in a new area are not necessarily the most inviting or the most impressive ones. Easy access often determines if a cliff gets bolted or not. Carpe got bolted for exactly that reason.The first bolts were placed on the smooth limestone of the valley in 1989 on this small cliff immersed in vegetation opposite the village. It is easily visible while driving along the uphill curvy road that leads to Giogo di Toirano. The easy access (3 minutes from the car park) convinced Marco Zambarino to bolt the first routes but pretty much immediately he realized that on this rather featureless rock, even on the “only” vertical section easy lines were very difficult to find. Some definitely committing routes resulted from this period. One of those Anche i galli volano even took the price for the first route in the 8th grade of the valley. Consequently the cliff was frequented by the local top for some time but then silence fell on this cliff for years. The cliff owes its rebirth to a project, which is now the route War Dance. The beauty of this line became evident after renewed cleaning of the base. It was first climbed by Gianni Duregato, who has put Carpe back on the map of actual top climbers.