Poets is a major sector located in the heart of all climbing activity. It is not only the closest sector to Masouri—sitting just above it—but its grey compact slabs and well-featured walls are of the best Kalymnos quality, with a dense concentration of popular, moderately graded routes.
Poets includes sub-sectors Iannis, Cœur D’Armeos, Poets Main, White Shark, Zeus, and Meltemi. (White Shark and Meltemi have recently been renewed and expanded to include numerous worthwhile new routes.)
The crag closest to Masouri. Perfect grey rock full of water pockets, a cave with tufas (Iannis) and vertical or steeper walls on the side with long new routes and insane extensions. 20 new worthwhile routes at sub-sector Meltemi.
An impressive variety of styles, from crimpy old-fashioned grey slabs to insane overhangs, tufa blobs, and endless extensions. On extensions, to avoid rope drag, it is best to top-rope the 1st pitch (so you don’t have quickdraws creating rope drag), then lead
the extension. Or, climb the extension as a 2nd pitch.
Good for year-round climbing. Exposed to the NW wind and the rain, but the cliffs dry quickly.
__Shade (Exposure: W)__
In the morning.
_Iannis (right) & Cœur D’Armeos_
_Poets Main & Zeus & Meltemi_
Fairly good everywhere except the balcony at Cœur D’Armeos and Meltemi.
__Iannis__ is a remarkable cave with big stalactites and tufas flanked by a vertical grey and a steep orange wall. Climbing is exquisite and overhanging, whether on stalactites and tufas in the cave or on the outer wall. The cave is shady, cool, and protected from the rain. It is not good on humid days, when the rock, especially on harder routes, feels soapy.
__Cœur D’Armeos__ is a complete crag with very long routes. A perfect grey slab on the lower left features about 12 easy to mid-grade routes, while some harder long routes start on a 20-meter balcony further right. (The balcony is accessed via fixed rope and metal rungs. It is not good/safe for kids.)
Very long technical routes, vertical or slightly leaning rock, good holds, and small features will make mid-grade climbers rejoice. For maximum safety, an 80m rope + 20 quickdraws are required at a minimum.
Unless otherwise noted, all routes were bolted by Claude Idoux between 2012–2017.
_Poets Main (far right)_
This small vertical wall for face climbing on small holds is located at the far right of the main crag, around the corner.
A small crag for technical climbing on small holds and features, White Shark is a bit further to the right of Poets Main. White/grey rock (some gentle, some overhanging), two thin tufa curtains, and a near-vertical grey slab with newer routes, including a very long diagonal crack, make it worthwhile. To get there, simply continue up and to the right of Poets Main for five more minutes.
__Zeus__ is a compact, well-featured orange wall with mostly vertical or gently overhanging climbs further right and slightly higher up than Poets Main. It is a beautiful venue above a garden with very old fig trees.
Be aware: some routes climb above big ledges, therefore attentive belaying is a must. In case of a fall, there is a risk of your climber hitting a ledge.
__Meltemi__ is a remote crag with a mountain feel even further up and to the right of sub-sector Zeus. The path is long, but the view is stunning. In 2021–2022, Rory Gregory and Mike Reed added more than 20 new routes here, essentially infusing new life into the crag and making the long walk truly worthwhile.
The vertical wall on the left features an occasional tufa plus small overhangs and quality compact slabs. The north-facing, overhanging orange/white cliff on the right offers afternoon shade and some good mid-grade climbs, including a distinctive corner.