__Arhi__ is where everything started. In Greek, the word arhí means “beginning.” This is the cliff where Andrea Di Bari wrote the first chapter in the Kalymnos story, when he and his team equipped the first routes in 1997. All these years later, sector Arhi still ranks as one of the most important crags on the island.
One of the island’s most classic crags, with hard steep routes in the middle and easier smooth slabs on both sides.
Everything. Absurdly overhanging lines up to 9a on yellow/red rock with stalactites and elongated slots, easy climbs from 4c, and a plethora of fantastic routes in the middle of the grade range.
__Shade (Exposure: S)__
Until 10:30–11:00 on the left, until 12:00 on the right, until 14:00 at Troulos.
_Arhi Main (left upper)_
_Arhi Main (left lower)_
_Troulos outer wall & inside left_
_Troulos inside right_
_Grey Slab left / Chäpi / Balcony Helvetia_
Warm. Protected from the north wind and perfect for winter climbing. The interior of the cave (Troulos) is protected from the rain also. Not good for climbing on very hot, humid, or windless days.
So-so. The approach is easy, but the terrain can be steep and space limited. Not to mention the goats, which are known to traverse the ledges above.
The far left section of __Arhi Main__ is delicate climbing at its finest: perfect grey limestone full of pockets, gouttes, and quality long climbs, some extending all the way to 67m. That said, some of the routes are not only very similar, but also squeezed close to each other.
Unless otherwise noted, all routes at the far left side of Arhi were bolted by Claude Idoux (2009–2020).
80m rope (minimum) + 20 quickdraws. For safety, always tie a knot at the end of your rope.
__Troulos__, which means “dome” in Greek, is the striking orange cave that sits front and center at Arhi. Climbing is steep and athletic, and some of the island’s hardest routes and projects are within the vast central arch. Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, and Alexander Megos have all climbed here. The outer wall on the left features some easier climbs, while the right side of Troulos is mega-popular thanks to routes full of tufa columns at a reasonable angle (relatively speaking), so it can feel cramped when busy.
The __Grey Slab__, to the right of Troulos, features some of the most popular face climbs on Kalymnos. Thin and technical on vertical rock on the left side, lower-angle and good for beginners on the far right.
Sub-sector __Chäpi__ is an airy, exposed terrace high above sector Arhi, with tufa pipes that are visually striking all the way down to the road. It was bolted by Boris Girardin and the Remy Brothers in 2007 in memory of Kaspar Ochsner, the Swiss guide who perished in 2007 during a solo winter climbing trip in the Engelhörner. He was well known for making many hard expo routes in the Bernese Alps, but Chäpi, as he was known to those close to him, was also one of the active early route equippers on Kalymnos.
__Balcony Helvetia__ is a divine narrow balcony with an exciting expo feeling and excellent pumpy climbing.
It is a hard zone of premium rock full of red overhangs, roofs, holes, and tufas.