Arginonta Valley

Kalymnos, GR

Arginonta Valley became mega-popular almost immediately after it was created. By local standards, it is not really a beautiful cliff—but it satisfies some of the visiting climbers’ most important requirements: afternoon shade, easy approach, well-protected routes, and a wide grade range (with many routes in the lower grades). Arginonta Valley Main was created thanks to an EU grant for crag maintenance and bolting in 2015/16. Until then, the cliff was nondescript and camouflaged under a thick layer of woody shrubs. The first 50 routes were funded by the EU grant, while the remaining routes were largely (though not entirely) funded by proceeds from the sale of this guidebook. Sub-sectors Black Buddha and Comic Tree are somewhat separate; see the page of each sub-sector for details. Excellent slabs, walls with good holds and bulges, even steep routes in red caves at a shady venue perfect for hot weather. __Busy__ 3/3 __Climbing__ On slabs with good holds and horizontal streaks, vertical walls with small holds and juggy bulges, and steep overhangs with jugs and even some colonettes. More routes were added all over in 2019–2023, most of them easy long routes to the right of Alani Wall (Mona Lisa) and to the right of Rock Tragos. Bolts may occasionally feel far apart if you are at your limit, but they are exactly where they should be. __Conditions__ Great for climbing on hot days, including summer. __Shade (Exposure: N)__ After 11:30–12:30. See following pages for specifics. _Diagoras Cave, Ronin Cave_ After 11:30 _Alani Wall & Mona Lisa _ After 12:30 _Rock n Roll Cave & Rock Tragos Wall_ After 11:30–12:00 _Black Buddha_ Between 10:00–16:00 _Comic Tree (left)_ Between 10:00–17:00 _Comic Tree (right)_ Between 10:00–17:00 (all day at routes 23, 24) __Kids__ Good at Arginonta Valley Main, except Rock n Roll Cave (high ledge). Space under Alani Wall, Mona Lisa, and Rock Tragos is limited: please keep kids further away from the cliff. Black Buddha and Comic Tree have some good terrain, but the paths are long, steep, and in the sun. __No dogs__ At the request of local shepherds, please leave your dog at home. The cliff is directly above a sheep pen, and dogs frighten the animals. __Alani Wall__ is great for long routes full of pockets, slots, horizontal streaks, and several small bulges. __Rock n Roll Cave__ is small but well worth trying if you operate at grades 7b and above. Routes are dynamic and pumpy on tufas and well-spaced jugs. __Rock Tragos Wall:__ Sharp slabs, juggy bulges, immaculate red walls, some very popular routes, and a handful of newer routes on the right side. This side of the crag catches a breeze even on days when the rest of the sector is still, so it can be cooler on hot days. On the flip side, in the summer this side of the cliff comes back into the sun around 18:00, while the left side of the crags stays in the shade all day long. __Black Buddha__ is high above Arginonta Bay, with beautiful and unusual views over the village and sea. It is a north-facing cliff with many hours of midday shade, so another good option for hot days. The approach path, though, is long and sunny. _Climbing_ Quality grey/black slabby rock full of small bulges and big hidden holds overhead. Unless otherwise noted, all routes were bolted by Claude Idoux in 2015/16. __Comic Tree__ is another small but quality crag high above Arginonta. It is north-facing, so there is lots of midday shade. Similar to Black Buddha, though, the path is long and in the sun. _Climbing_ On a vertical or slightly overhanging technical wall. Routes on the left are well-protected, thoroughly cleaned, and graded mostly 6b–6c. More recently (2021/22) the crag was extended to the right with about 10 new routes, some of which need imminent cleaning of loose rock or more traffic to improve. Some lichen growing on the rock because of its northern exposure can be brushed away easily. Most routes (including three routes cleaned but not yet equipped) were bolted by Claude Idoux in 2017/18, unless otherwise noted.
CRAG STATISTICS
144
Routes
308248
meters climbed
11980
Zlags
6a+
average grade

J F M A M J J A S O N D

Very safe
Parking
Slabs
Vertical
Overhanging
Roof
Exposition
20 m.
25 min.

GALLERY