Frankenjura 1
The Frankenjura is the most important climbing area in Germany. In 1975, Kurt Albert started marking routes he had climbed free with a red dot at the start. This was the beginning of the redpoint generation. Today there are more than 10.000 climbing routes between the cities of Nuremberg, Bamberg and Bayreuth. Although it is known for its difficult climbs, in the Frankenjura there are actually more climbs in the 7th grade than in the 10th and above. Most routes require an 8-10 quickdraw, sport rack. However, a small set of wires and slings might be useful in routes up to grade 6. The climbing areas within Frankenjura are divided into two volumes. This first volume (Band 1) describes the cliffs of the northern part (Leinleitertal, Frankendorfer Klettergarten, Wiesenttal, Gößweinstein, Püttlachtal, Weihersbachtal, Klumpertal, Ailsbachtal, Paradiestal, Kaiserbachtal, Scheßlitzer Gebiet, Staffelberg, Kleinziegenfelder Tal, Bärental and Zillertal). A map of these areas is on the last page of this book. All cliffs and parking areas now have GPS coordinates. Google maps or any navigation system will direct you to the right parking spot and cliff. Each of the 14 areas is introduced by a short overview with a detailed map showing parking and approach. Each cliff has a short text (in German) giving the exact details. For understanding this only a small knowledge of German is necessary. (links - left, rechts - right, gerade(aus) - straight, nord - north, süd - south, ost - east, west - west, bergauf - uphill, bergab - downhill, Pfad - small trail, (Wander)Weg - hiking trail, Straße - road, Bach - stream, Fluß - river). In this book, each cliff is drawn in one or more topos with the numbering going from left to right. The ratings, the first ascensionist and the year it was established (as far as known) are listed for each route. All cliffs in this book are in different zones, marked in the topo and on the rock. Zone 1: climbing is forbidden, Zone 2: Status quo, climbing is allowed, but no new routes, Zone 3: climbing and new routes outside of the vegetation are permitted. Some cliffs are banned from climbing due to nesting birds in spring. Author: Sebastian Schwertner
