Markezina greda

Dalmatia, HR

History: The Klis Fortress (Croatian: Tvrđava Klis) is a medieval fortress situated above a village bearing the same name, near Split, Croatia. The Klis Fortress is one of the most important medieval fortresses in Dalmatian history. It was originally built as a small stronghold (by the ancient Illyrian tribe Dalmatae) that became a royal castle that was the seat of many Croatian kings. Finally it was developed as large fortress that was as a great source of defense during wars with the Ottomans. Klis Fortress guarded the frontier, and during two thousand year long history it was lost and re-conquered several times. Due to its location on a pass that separates the mountains Mosor and Kozjak, the fortress served as a significant source of defence in Dalmatia and has been a critical crossroads between the Mediterranean belt and the Balkan area. In the TV series Game of Thrones, Klis fortress was transformed into Meereen, the largest of the three great slave cities. Climbing: Markezina greda is located on the eastern part of mountain Kozjak and a 15 min drive from Split. It is close to the 'Rupotine' and 'Bobanova greda' crags. The crag hosts mostly demanding sport routes and a few multi-pitch routes. The first route was developed in 1971, 'Anđin' (S. Božić, B. Siriščević), but only recently this crag was bolted by local climbers. Now there are more than 100 routes, ranging from vertical to overhanging, and short and long. Tufa climbing is the dominant style at this crag. Routes usually consist of one or several boulder cruxes, which makes them hard to onsight. Reading the sequence can be tricky, and the crag lacks easier grade routes. Although the rock is sharp, the crag has real jewels. Visitors are usually surprised by the grading and locals call it the 'gold standard'. Coming here, you'll get a chance to answer the question of whether you climb for the grades, or for the beauty. The crag is an excellent addition to summer climbing in Dalmatia as in winter it is often too windy and cold. The crag is best suited to upper 7th and 8th-grade climbers. After soaking rain, the crag tends to stay wet for an extended period.
CRAG STATISTICS
120
Routes
436
meters climbed
22
Zlags
7a+
average grade

J F M A M J J A S O N D

Very safe
Rain safe
Parking
Vertical
Overhanging
Exposition
407 m.
15 min.

GALLERY