Marjan

Dalmatia, HR

Marjan is an integral part of the city center that extends from the Marmont Street and continues to the west. In 1964 it was declared a park and since then is considered a protected part of Split. Marjan is a peninsula with a variety of plants and forests, as well as walking trails, viewpoints and swimming places. It is a favourite meeting place for the inhabitants of Split, and a convenient location for various recreational activities. On the west side of the peninsula, you will find the popular climbing spot called 'Šantine stine'. The rock is south-oriented, and there are both vertical and overhanging sectors, although vertical routes are more common. Marjan is an ideal winter climbing area - winters on Marjan are mild with little rainfall, plenty of sun and mostly pleasant temperatures. The only times you should avoid it are the days with a strong south wind and/or rain because it is impossible to hide from either. Such days are rare, however, and the climbing area is completely protected from the north wind, known as 'bura'. After rain, the rock dries almost instantly (with a few exceptions). Spring and fall are also perfect for climbing, but summer is sweltering and best avoided. In 1986, Marjan went down in history as the climbing site where the 4th climbing competition in the world was organized. After this, Marjan experienced a climbing revolution! The most difficult climb on Marjan at that time was 'Ivin Tavan' with a grade of 7a+ (today 6c+), and that year the Slovenian team Srečo Rehberger and Metod Škarja climbed four new routes, the most difficult of which was 'Hong Kong Direkt' (7b+). Ivica Matković did the first ascents of almost all the harders route on the crag (Zadnja ruža Hrvatska, Sveti Duje...) History Marjan - the famous hill high above the western side of the Split peninsula - was first mentioned under the name 'Marulianus' in the 8th century. The ancient Roman presence on Marjan dates back to before the construction of Diocletian's Palace when Marjan was a temple of the ancient Roman hunting goddess Diana. Since ancient times, it has housed numerous hermitages, on the sites of which churches were later built. The most famous is Sv. Jere located at the crag. A tower, built into one of the caves, was used to shelter field workers from attached by Turks or pirates. The routes 'Forza Fiume' and 'Ogledalo' (sector Sara) are located immediate of that tower. All visitors to Marjan, including climbers, are obliged to treat the flora, fauna and historical buildings and localities with the utmost care! It is forbidden to camp under the rock, or to park or drive on the road at the foot of the rock - the promenade of Albert Marangunić! Open fires are banned at Marjan all year round!
CRAG STATISTICS
79
Routes
1144
meters climbed
62
Zlags
6b+
average grade

J F M A M J J A S O N D

Family friendly
Slabs
Vertical
Overhanging
Exposition
86 m.

GALLERY