Climbing in Göteborg

This is the fourth edition of “Klättring i Göteborg med omnejd”. The guide presents to you climbing in and around the city of Göteborg and in the south part of Bohuslän in the southwest of Sweden. Here you’ll find 31 large climbing areas and 28 small (only of local interest) crags containing in total 2392 routes. The guide has been divided into three parts: Norr (North), Öst (East) and Göteborg (the city of Göte-borg). On page 5 there is a map of the included areas as well as a table summarizing the climbing in each area. You’ll find different climbing in respective area. A lot of the climbing in the north part of the guide is sport climbing on steep, overhanging routes. The east part is also mostly about sport climbing. However, both the grades and the inclinations of the routes are a bit more moderate here. The trad routes are the dominating type of climbing in the city of Göteborg, but you can also find quite many bolted routes in Göteborg. For more information about the different parts of the guide see the introductions in the beginning of each part. You can also check out the list of the best crags in the guide on page 10. The guide also contains a short chapter with infor-mation about the most important ice climbing spots to be found in the area. At the beginning of every crag description you’ll find some general information in English about this particular crag, how to get there, etc. All English text is inside light-yellow frames with a Union Jack in the upper left corner. __Internet/app__ A guide can never be final. New crags are being discovered, new routes are being done, old routes change, access problems appear, etc. To keep yourself up to date, visit the guide's page on Facebook where all the updates are being published. The updates will also be published regularly in the smartphone application developed in cooperation with Vertical-Life. On page 3 you can find a code which unlocks the guide in the app for a period of 3 years. If you do a new route, have any opinions about the guide, you can send an e-mail to the author at [email protected] or send a message on Facebook. You can also send an e-mail if you have any general questions about climbing in Göteborg. __Access__ The climbing means a lot of stress on the environment. The climbers must get to the crags, park their cars, get to the routes and be there. During this time, they eat, talk (or scream sometimes when they pretend to be Adam Ondra), etc. All this can be a source of an access issue. To avoid such problems, use above all common sense (please consult the table on page 7 to check if your common sense is compatible with what Swedish Climbing Association considers to be common sense). You can also read the introduction to the crag and check if there are some present access problems. You can also visit the web page of the Swedish Climbing Association ( and check out their database that lists access issues at most of the crags in Sweden. The same information can of course be found on the guide’s Facebook page. As the printed guide cannot be easily updated, it is important that you check the access situation at every crag you visit regularly. The intention of writing down these problems is that they are to be followed. So, if you read that you’re not allowed to park your car at some particular place, don’t do that (even if your car is the only one in sight and you don’t think it’s blocking the road). Consider that your behaviour at the crags is taken as general for all climbers by the non-climbing persons. You’re representing all of us! Remember that not knowing about a specific access issue is never an excuse. The local climbing club usually has a person responsible for access issues. You can contact this person in case of any problems. Aid climbing on existing free climbed routes should be done without a hammer (clean). Dry tooling existing routes is also a bad idea. It will destroy the routes forever. If you plan to bolt any route in the city of Göteborg please contact the local club’s bolting committee. To the right you can see a quite advanced looking table which is an attempt to compare the Swedish grading system with some other grading systems. In the process of creating the table, the writer has used opinions from different climbers and a number of grade comparison tables available on the Internet. The table is certainly not 100% correct and should be seen more as a hint for foreign climbers. The routes and so the grades are not constant. The holds might break, new sequences can be found and a grade of a route can change over time. When it comes to new routes the grade given by first ascender is just a recommendation. It takes time and numerous ascents to confirm a route’s grade (if it ever can be done accurately). Therefore the grades in the guide aren’t supposed to be seen as some kind of absolute truth. If you feel that a grade of some particular route should be different don’t get mad at the writer. Instead you could share your opinion with other climbers by mailing the writer at the following e-mail address [email protected] or send a message on Facebook.
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