FA of "Clash of Titans" 9a+ by Alex Megos // Götterwandl, Tirol 18 Jun 11:44
On the 17th June 2017, Alex Megos climbed the first ascent of a new f9a+ at Götterwandl, close to Nassereith, Tirol. The route, named ‘Clash of the Titans’ links the start of Juturna f8c+ (which Alex climbed on his first redpoint the previous day) into the ‘Vulcanus’ project (as yet unclimbed).
Of the route Alex says: “I feel certain that this route is f9a+. The route consists of two distinct sections, the first part is around f8b+ /f8c and leads to a poor rest that was enough for me to take a moment to shake out. This is then followed by the crux. The sequence involved around 10 moves of consistent font 8a+ / V12 climbing. The moves are powerful and the holds are small. The crux finishes with a throw from an undercling to hit the top crimp and then there is easy climbing to the top."
Alex about the area of Tirol: "This is the first time I have been to the area and the Götterwandl wall was absolutely amazing. Tirol as a whole has been brilliant. I was shocked to say that I had never been before. I always thought I needed to travel far away to find more world class climbing; Tirol showed me that it’s possible to find incredible climbing right on your doorstep.”
The route took Alex 2 days in total, with conditions on the second day being almost perfect thanks to a cool breeze coming from the West.
Alex was in Tirol shooting with photographer Liam Lonsdale in cooperation with Vertical Life. Their aim was to explore the region as much as possible and they covered Zillertal, the Dolomites in Südtirol/South Tyrol and then the climbing at Götterwandl to finish. They will now spend two days at the OutDoor trade show in Friedrichshafen before travelling to their final destination of the trip, Céüse, France.
Vertical Life is unlocking topos for each area that they visit to climb. You can follow their progress on their Instagram accounts (@alexandermegos & @liamlonsdale), and also find exclusive content on the Vertical Life Instagram account (@vertical.life.climbing).
Alex Megos is sponsored by: Patagonia, Red Bull Germany, Tenaya, DMM, Cafe Kraft, Sterling Ropes, Entreprises, Friction Labs and Vertical Life Climbing.
Liam Lonsdale is sponsored by: Trōv, Peak Design, 3 Legged Thing, Rinaldo's Speciality Coffee and Boldest Blocwear.