The sandstone sea cliffs of Dún Séanna Head just east of Dingle Town offer some superb single-pitch routes in a very atmospheric setting. The rock is steep with plenty of positive holds. Most of the routes follow cracks or corners but the standout feature is the slender sea stack known as The Needle. The routes on the west section of the crag can only be accessed by abseil, so an abseil rope is essential. It’s possible to scramble down to the platform below the routes on the east side. Most routes are well protected but carry plenty of gear as the pitches are long.
The crag faces south and is a good option during the colder months. The climbing isn’t affected by the tide but if the sea is rough the start of many routes can be wet. As always when climbing on sea cliffs be alert for rogue waves.
From the carpark walk west along the edge of the fields aiming for the top of the raised headland, the crag is on the far side of this. The routes are described from left to right (as you face the rock).
Drive east out of Dingle Town on the N86. After just under 2km turn right (signposted ‘Dún Síon’). After 500m turn left, drive to the end of road and park. Access to the crag is via farmer’s fields so please respect their property, making sure to close gates after you. Ask permission in advance (066 9151265) and remember camping isn’t permitted on the headland or on the beach.