The Gap of Dunloe contains over 300 routes spread across more than a dozen crags. The rock is very high quality red sandstone and tends to form steep faces that are crossed by horizontal breaks. The climbing is generally steep with good holds. The abundance of parallel cracks and breaks make a good selection of cams almost indispensable. Double ropes are useful, especially on the longer pitches, they are also required for the abseil descents.
The majority of the routes face east and only get the sun earlier in the day. The valley shelters the crags from the prevailing wind and seepage isn’t a much of a problem so the Gap is a good option during the colder, damper months.
During the summer months, when the Gap is busy with horse-drawn carts carrying tourists, you should park in Kate’s carpark and walk up the road. The rest of the year you can drive, there is room for a few cars on the grass verge just past Brennan’s Leap. If this is full then park on the left side of the road just past the bridge.
From Killarney take the N72 west. After 6km turn left (signposted ‘Gap of Dunloe’). After another 4km turn left again (signposted ‘Gap of Dunloe’) following the road past Kate Kearney’s pub.