Aughris Head (Sligo Town)
10 min / m.a.s.l. /
Aughris Head is west of Sligo Town near the surfing village of Easky. It has some excellent steep bouldering on wave smoothed limestone with views across Sligo Bay to Ben Bulben and Donegal.
The limestone in this area has beds that dip about 15° inland, which creates very steep roofs with small edges and massive slopers perfect for bouldering. The height of the stoney beach can vary considerably from month to month.
The 60˚ wall has some excellent problems and it’s only affected by the highest tides and doesn’t seep. The deep cave is covered in slopers and has a large roof at the entrance but it can get damp. The choss cave has a roof dripping with stalactites.
I have not detailed individual lines as they aren’t that distinct, the best approach is to choose a piece of rock and try and climb it. Aughris is in some ways like an indoor climbing wall albeit a very beautiful and brilliant one. Aughris is well worth a visit but like most coastal bouldering areas conditions have to be right. The lower the tide the better - only a small amount of bouldering is possible at high tide. A good breeze and the sun can help dry any seepage or damp.
Just to the left of the pier is a grassy path that leads west along the edge of the cliff. Follow this for about 10 minutes, the bouldering is in the cove just after you cross the fence.
Heading west on the N9 towards Ballina, There is a turn right sign posted for Aughris Pier/Head after 20km, follow this and park at the pier.