These are all the routes around the west gully entrance of Devil’s Glen.
Devil’s Glen is south facing, meaning that it’s sunny all day. All routes are listed from climber’s left to right (west to east). For most sport routes, 10 quickdraws are enough. I was extremely tempted to name all “Unknown” routes after all the bad Star Wars prequels to make them immediately outdated by 15 years and tacky. Fortunately, my contributors convinced me not to, and instead I gave them names from places I’ve visited in Japan and Nepal, followed by an asterisk.
Main Approach: This is the current approved approach. From the parking area, walk west along County Road 124. The road will bend left slowly, and you will pass a colourful birdhouse shop on the left. After the road straightens, you will see the back of a pedestrian crossing sign on your left. This is where the trail to Devil’s Glen lies. Some people park on the shoulder across from this sign, but do not do this as it can affect access. Follow the trail into the forest until it meets with the cliff. Go right and hike for about 300m until you arrive at a narrow gully near the trail that has a fallen, dead tree at its mouth. Carefully downclimb into the gully as it can be slippery, and worse when wet. Alternatively, about 10m from the beginning of the gully on the right, there is a slightly easier downclimb behind a large fallen, dead tree. Continue down the gully until you arrive in the Gully Area and the west end of Devil’s Glen. It’s a good idea to bring headlamps if you plan on climbing late for the walk along the road. When it’s dark, drivers may not see you, and some tend not to drive straight.
East End Approach: From where the trail from the road meets the cliff, go left. Hike for about 400m. Be careful, as the trail comes quite close to the cliff edge. The trail will wander slightly away from the cliff before returning back to the cliff. Look carefully for a descent area down a dirty sloping area (GPS: 44.355267, -80.223503). It’s best to exit at this approach at least once before using it. Please note that this access point leaves the boundaries of the provincial park, so it’s possible that this approach might close in the future. It’s best to check the Ontario Access Coalition’s website for updates.
From Toronto, head on Highway 401 west. Go north on Highway 410. Highway 410 becomes the smaller Highway 10. Highway 10 makes a left and joins with Highway 89 temporarily. Continue for a few minutes and then turn right (north) on Dufferin Road 124. Dufferin Road 124 will become County Road 124. When you reach Singhampton, County Road 124 will continue east (turn right). Drive until you reach Concession 10. Turn left and park on the shoulder near the intersection. Approximately 2 hours drive.