Santa Linya

Of all the cliffs covered in this guidebook, few represent modern hard climbing in Catalunya better than the Cova Gran of Santa Linya. Over the last 15 years this huge cave has become one of the most important testing grounds in Europe, attracting the sport’s elite from all over the world. Aid climbers tackled this formidable challenge back in the 1990s but it wasn’t until the 21st century that free climbing standards had progressed sufficiently to enable the next wave of development. Today the Cova Gran is home to more than 70 routes, link-ups, and vari- ations, and apart from a few rather scrappy offerings in the less-steep margins the entry level is 7b, with most routes being much, much harder. The big, hard routes in the centre of the cave are truly spectacular... The cave faces predominantly south (the wings differ slightly) and can be a sun-trap during the winter months. From mid-spring to early autumn, when the sun is higher in the sky, the deepest part of the cave actually remains shaded for the greater part of the day. Many of the shorter routes stay dry through the heaviest showers, although seepage may be a problem following prolonged periods of rain. Note: climbers are not the only group of enthusiasts attracted to Santa Linya. At roughly the same time as the free climbers arrived, archaeologists began digging in the base of the cave, uncovering important remains of prehistoric settlements. It is a great credit to both parties that a mutually acceptable agreement has been reached, currently allowing climbing to continue for most of the year while giving the archaeologists exclusive access for a short period running from late spring to midsummer. The exact dates vary, but climbers must avail themselves of the latest information and adhere strictly to the prohibitions. It goes without saying that climbers must be on their very best behaviour in Santa Linya: to climb in the cave during the ‘closed’ season or interfere in any way with the protected dig-sites would seriously imperil future access. At the end of the digging season the excavations are carefully covered with tarpaulins and plywood, and protective metal fences are erected around each site. It’s not pretty, but if it means climbing can continue then it’s a price worth paying. For climbers with more modest ambitions sector Futbolín may be of interest. Though the rock is less than perfect in places, the routes are very well bolted and the crag has become very popular, particularly with climbers operating in the 6b+/7a range. Those looking for tougher challenges will also find enough to keep them happy for a couple of sunny winter afternoons here. And, as of summer 2019, Santa Linya has a brand new sector — El Barranc de Fontfreda. The sector, situated on the hillside to the east of the town, is rather modest in both stature and number of routes, but the climbing is varied and interesting and the rock is probably the best in the zone. Most of the grades here are currently prospective; updates will be announced on our blog once a consensus has been reached (lleidaclimbs.com).